Snacking State-by-State: Arizona
Official Name: State of Arizona
State Nicknames: The Grand Canyon State; The Copper State
Admission to the US: February 14, 1912 (#48)
Capital: Phoenix (largest city)
Other Important Cities: Tucson (2nd largest), Mesa (3rd largest), Glendale (4th largest)
Region: West (Southwest); Mountain (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Chile Pepper,
Pinyon Nut
Bordered by: Utah (north); New Mexico (east); Sonora (south); California, Nevada & Baja California (west)
; Colorado (northeast corner - Arizona is one of the Four Corners states)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: Arizona Trout (fish)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: chiles
(mild in the south), tortillas (flour in the south), Navajo taco, beef,
nopal cactus (both pad and fruit), burritos, chimichangas, menudo
The
Mexican aspect of Arizona's cuisine is specifically tied to the
cuisine of Sonora, the Mexican state right across the border. The two
mirror each other very well. Note: I've also passed through Sonora
state, on a major bus trip from Morelia (Michoacán) to Mexicali (Baja
California) by way of Guadalajara (Jalisco), but that's a story for
another day.
If you want to pin down Southwestern food, it is
fairly easy. If you want to pin down what is specifically Arizonan,
that is a bit more difficult. Kathi Long tries to do this in her
cookbook on
The Southwest from Williams-Sonoma, focusing on the most notable influences in Arizona cooking, from Mexico:
Arizona
cooks have...looked to Mexico for inspiration. The southern part of
the state borrowed from the cooking of Sonora, which lies directly
across the border, a culinary alliance that reveals itself in large,
thin flour tortillas, the use of nopal cactus, and a menu of mildly
spiced dishes. Elsewhere in the state, residents traditionally dine on
Mexican chimichangas..., menudo..., and giant burritos, as well as the
more staid ranch fare introduced by early cattlemen and other settlers
from the Midwest and East Coast. [Long, p. 12]
In the
spirit of Arizona's Sonoran influences, I wanted to find a recipe that
incorporated all three of these elements: nopal (that is, prickly pear)
cactus, mild chiles and large, flour tortillas. They are out there, but
I hadn't found them before I stumbled upon the massive compendium by
Cheryl and Bill Jamison,
The Border Cookbook: Authentic Home Cooking of the American Southwest and Northern Mexico (also on
Google Books). In Arizona, burritos are standard fare - particulary massive ones. The Jamisons rightly call those
burros, since a
burrito is just a "little
burro".
Among their many recipes for
burros and
burritos, one breakfast creation specifically piqued my interest: their
machaca breakfast
burro. Since it comes straight from Phoenix, it seemed like a good place to start.
The recipe: Machaca Breakfast Burro
As the Jamisons point out,
machaca originally referred to beef or other meat.
Machaca
originally referred to meat (usually beef) that was seasoned, dried for
preservation, and later tenderized by pulverizing and cooking. The
word comes from the verb machacar,
meaning to pound or crush... Many people now use the term to describe
any beef cooked well-done with seasonings and then shredded. [Alters
Jamison et al., p. 75]
I don't buy a lot of meat these days, but I saw this as a great way to
use up some frozen beef in my freezer. Before my former neighbor moved
to Nova Scotia a few months ago he gave me some frozen beef he would've
otherwise thrown out. Thawed it amounted to a pound and a half -
perfect for a halved version of this recipe. This made the amount of
money I put out for this recipe unusually light:
* beef (free!!! Thanks, Dale, if you ever read this)
* salt and pepper (have)
* bacon grease (if you have the bacon, it's not that difficult to make some on the spot)
* beef stock (had none, so I had to turn to the Maggi chicken bouillon in my pantry)
* onion (have)
* garlic (have)
* small Roma tomatoes (about $1 for two)
* mild green chiles (one poblano chile for about 50 cents)
* fresh lime juice (one lime for about the same)
* egg (this was optional - I wasn't planning to use one at the time but decided to add one later)
* burrito-size flour tortillas (the priciest item, about $3 for a package of eight)

This
recipe was a bit more involved than many I do. First, you must briefly
brown the beef in some of the bacon grease, then cook in a Dutch oven
over low heat for over an hour with broth, onion & garlic. Wait for
it to cool down a little, then break it up and - here's the part that I
haven't done before - throw it in your food processor until shredded.
You must do this in small batches lest it not shred everything.
Fry
the beef a bit more until slightly drier and until some patches of beef
look darker and more dessicated. Remove it, and cook the rest of the
onion & garlic with the rest of the bacon grease, the reserved
liquid from the Dutch oven, tomato, chile pepper (roasted and chopped)
and lime juice. Add the beef and cook for about 25 minutes.
I never thought I would do this, but why the hell not?
I'm not making this for PETA after all...
The closeup hides the fact that I still need to clean my stove
25 minutes later... okay, so the stove isn't that bad...
Here is where I put the
machaca mixture
in the fridge, which the Jamisons say you can do at this point. I
brought it out a day or so later and added an egg. Really, it added
very little to the dish. I could neither taste it nor even see it at
all. In retrospect, it was not necessary, and I wouldn't add it again.
To be sure, the Jamisons day that part is optional.
The rest is
ridiculously easy: just spoon the hot mixture into a large
(Sonoran-style) flour tortilla and make yourself a burro. Eat it with
salsa (my choice: a roasted tomato salsa from the Jamison's same book
called
salsa del norte).
Okay, mine really was more the size of a burrito, but still...
The thing about
machaca-style
beef: it isn't supposed to be soft and juicy, per se. Perhaps I did
something wrong. I mean, it wasn't dripping and wet, but it was
pleasantly soft and just a bit moist. Plus, the long, slow cooking with
tomatoes and
roasted poblano
chile pepper, onions and garlic, bacon grease (yet another use!!!) and
lime juice just blends together in the most beautiful way. I'm sorry if
I'm starting to sound "foodie-ish". I really don't mean to. It was
just a beautiful thing to eat. Even if you decide to turn that
burro into the more diminutive
burrito.
I have been subsisting off
machaca burros and burritos since. I may even make a quesadilla if the mood strikes me, complete with thinkly sliced
queso fresco, which is not easy to melt, let me tell you.
Sources:
Alters Jamison, Cheryl, and Bill Jamison.
The Border Cookbook: Authentic Home Cooking of the American Southwest and Northern Mexico. The Harvard Common Press: Boston, 1995.
AZCentral.com.
Nopales recipes. Posted date June 24, 2005.
Long, Kathi.
The Southwest: New American Cooking.
From the Williams-Sonoma "New American Cooking" series, Chuck
Williams, general editor. Time-Life Books: San Francisco, 2001.
Some information also obtained from Wikipedia's "
Arizona" page and the
Food Timeline State Foods webpage link to "
Arizona".